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RO & TIVenite a tavola.

At the table

Wine, beside the food it grew up with.

Ro made his own, and there was always a glass on the table. These are the wines of Calabria and the south, what they smell like, and which main course each one sits next to.

A note on sulfites

Low sulfite, honestly explained.

Sulfites (not sulfates) are sulfur compounds used to keep wine stable. Every wine contains some — fermentation makes them — so “sulfite free” is not really possible. What you can find is wine with no added sulfites, or a low total, often under 50 mg per litre.

How to find them: look for “senza solfiti aggiunti” or “no added sulfites” on the back label, ask the shop for the total sulfite figure, and follow importers and groups that specialise in low-intervention wine — VinNatur, Triple A, Louis/Dressner, Zev Rovine. Organic certification alone caps sulfites but does not mean none were added. Low-sulfite wine is also more fragile: keep it cool and drink it sooner.

The notes below describe grapes and appellations in general. They are not endorsements of any producer, and no bottle is claimed to be low-sulfite without you confirming it on the label.

The wines

Red · Cirò, Calabria

Cirò Rosso Classico

Gaglioppo

  • Sour cherry
  • Dried orange peel
  • Wild oregano
  • Dust and iron

Medium-bodied, pale for a red, firm tannin, high acidity. Serve slightly cool, around 60°F.

Sulfites: Calabria's oldest red is a common starting point for low-intervention bottlings. Look for “senza solfiti aggiunti” or “no added sulfites” on the back label, or a total sulfite figure printed by the producer.

At the table: The acidity cuts chilli heat and baked cheese without adding weight, and the dried-citrus note follows the tomato.

White · Cirò, Calabria

Cirò Bianco

Greco Bianco

  • Yellow apple
  • Almond skin
  • Chamomile
  • Sea salt

Dry, medium-bodied, slightly waxy texture with a bitter-almond finish. Serve at 50°F.

Sulfites: Ask for unfiltered or skin-contact versions — producers making those styles usually keep added sulfur low and will say so on the label or the importer's sheet.

At the table: Salt cod and anchovy want salinity rather than fruit; the almond bitterness meets the toasted breadcrumb.

Red · Cosenza province, Calabria

Terre di Cosenza — Magliocco

Magliocco Dolce

  • Black plum
  • Violet
  • Black pepper
  • Bay leaf

Fuller and darker than Gaglioppo, ripe but savoury, moderate tannin. Serve at 62°F.

Sulfites: A small-production grape, so most bottles come from growers who work with minimal additions. Check for organic certification alongside a stated low sulfite total.

At the table: The Cosenza red for Cosenza food — enough weight for stuffed eggplant, enough herb to sit with bay and chilli.

Rosato · Cirò, Calabria

Cirò Rosato

Gaglioppo

  • Blood orange
  • Pomegranate
  • Rosehip
  • Crushed stone

Dry, coppery-pink, light to medium with real grip. Serve at 48°F.

Sulfites: Rosato is often bottled young and simply; producers making it without fining or filtering are the ones most likely to keep added sulfites at a minimum.

At the table: Summer vegetables, oil and bread need something cold and dry that doesn't compete.

White · Locride and Bianco, Calabria

Mantonico

Mantonico Bianco

  • Ripe pear
  • Beeswax
  • Dried herb
  • Citrus pith

Dry, textured, sometimes lightly oxidative. Serve at 52°F.

Sulfites: Frequently made in amphora or old wood by small growers; those bottlings usually carry very low added sulfur, stated on the label.

At the table: Onion soup and potato dumplings are sweet and soft — this has the texture to sit next to them.

White · Terre di Cosenza, Calabria

Pecorello

Pecorello

  • Green apple
  • White flowers
  • Fennel
  • Lemon leaf

Light, brisk, high acid, clean finish. Serve at 48°F.

Sulfites: A local revival grape grown almost entirely by small estates — many farm organically. Confirm added sulfites with the shop or importer.

At the table: Fennel and citrus in the glass, fennel and citrus on the plate.

Red · Basilicata

Aglianico del Vulture

Aglianico

  • Sour black cherry
  • Tobacco leaf
  • Volcanic ash
  • Dried fig

Full, tannic, high acid, long. Serve at 63°F. Wants food.

Sulfites: Tannic reds need less preservative than most wines, so several Vulture growers bottle with little or no added sulfur — look for VinNatur or Triple A importers.

At the table: The one red on this list with enough tannin for anything baked, braised, or heavily peppered.

Red · Mount Etna, Sicily

Etna Rosso

Nerello Mascalese, Nerello Cappuccio

  • Red cherry
  • Orange rind
  • Smoke
  • Dried thyme

Pale, perfumed, fine tannin, mineral finish. Serve at 60°F.

Sulfites: Etna is one of the centres of low-intervention winemaking in the south; low- and zero-added-sulfite bottlings are widely available and usually labelled as such.

At the table: Light enough for fish stew, savoury enough for caponata's sweet and sour.

White · Campania

Fiano and Greco di Tufo

Fiano, Greco

  • Hazelnut
  • Quince
  • Smoke
  • Honeysuckle

Dry, weighty for a white, mineral, ages well. Serve at 52°F.

Sulfites: Ask for the smaller Irpinia estates — several work organically and print total sulfites on the back label.

At the table: Nutty enough for chickpeas, structured enough for a soup built on onion and oil.

Red · Salento, Puglia

Negroamaro and Primitivo

Negroamaro, Primitivo

  • Dark plum
  • Carob
  • Tobacco
  • Sun-dried tomato

Warm, ripe, soft tannin, low acid in Primitivo and firmer in Negroamaro. Serve at 62°F.

Sulfites: Ripe southern reds are sometimes bottled with higher sulfur for stability, so this is the category to check hardest. Seek out growers who state a total under 50 mg/L.

At the table: The everyday table red of the heel — built for pasta with potato and bean dishes.

White · Campania and Molise

Falanghina

Falanghina

  • Lemon
  • Green melon
  • Wet stone
  • Sage

Light, crisp, straightforward. Serve at 46°F.

Sulfites: Common enough that low-sulfite versions exist at ordinary prices — a good first bottle to test whether lower sulfites suit you.

At the table: Antipasto wine: cold, sharp, and out of the way of salt and oil.

Sweet · Bianco, Calabria

Greco di Bianco

Greco Bianco, dried on mats

  • Dried apricot
  • Orange blossom
  • Bergamot
  • Honey

Sweet, amber, moderate alcohol, citrus-bitter finish. Serve at 54°F in small glasses.

Sulfites: Sweet wines usually carry the most sulfur of any category. If sulfites bother you, keep the pour small rather than hunting for a low-sulfite version.

At the table: Calabria's dessert wine beside Calabria's holiday pastries — bergamot in the glass, honey on the plate.

Side by side with each main course

Bread comes with the main course, so the wine is chosen against the dish itself.

Fileja alla ’Nduja, ready for the table

Fileja alla ’Nduja

Hand-rolled Calabrian pasta in a spreadable chilli salami sauce

Red · Cirò, Calabria

Cirò Rosso Classico

Sour cherry · Dried orange peel · Wild oregano · Dust and iron

The acidity cuts chilli heat and baked cheese without adding weight, and the dried-citrus note follows the tomato.

Red · Cosenza province, Calabria

Terre di Cosenza — Magliocco

Black plum · Violet · Black pepper · Bay leaf

The Cosenza red for Cosenza food — enough weight for stuffed eggplant, enough herb to sit with bay and chilli.

Red · Basilicata

Aglianico del Vulture

Sour black cherry · Tobacco leaf · Volcanic ash · Dried fig

The one red on this list with enough tannin for anything baked, braised, or heavily peppered.

Melanzane Ripiene alla Calabrese, ready for the table

Melanzane Ripiene alla Calabrese

Stuffed eggplant baked with breadcrumbs and tomato

Red · Cirò, Calabria

Cirò Rosso Classico

Sour cherry · Dried orange peel · Wild oregano · Dust and iron

The acidity cuts chilli heat and baked cheese without adding weight, and the dried-citrus note follows the tomato.

Red · Cosenza province, Calabria

Terre di Cosenza — Magliocco

Black plum · Violet · Black pepper · Bay leaf

The Cosenza red for Cosenza food — enough weight for stuffed eggplant, enough herb to sit with bay and chilli.

Red · Basilicata

Aglianico del Vulture

Sour black cherry · Tobacco leaf · Volcanic ash · Dried fig

The one red on this list with enough tannin for anything baked, braised, or heavily peppered.

Red · Salento, Puglia

Negroamaro and Primitivo

Dark plum · Carob · Tobacco · Sun-dried tomato

The everyday table red of the heel — built for pasta with potato and bean dishes.

Baccalà alla Cosentina, ready for the table

Baccalà alla Cosentina

Salt cod stewed with potatoes, peppers, and olives

White · Cirò, Calabria

Cirò Bianco

Yellow apple · Almond skin · Chamomile · Sea salt

Salt cod and anchovy want salinity rather than fruit; the almond bitterness meets the toasted breadcrumb.

Red · Mount Etna, Sicily

Etna Rosso

Red cherry · Orange rind · Smoke · Dried thyme

Light enough for fish stew, savoury enough for caponata's sweet and sour.

Pasta e Patate, ready for the table

Pasta e Patate

A thick, starchy pasta and potato supper

Red · Cirò, Calabria

Cirò Rosso Classico

Sour cherry · Dried orange peel · Wild oregano · Dust and iron

The acidity cuts chilli heat and baked cheese without adding weight, and the dried-citrus note follows the tomato.

Red · Salento, Puglia

Negroamaro and Primitivo

Dark plum · Carob · Tobacco · Sun-dried tomato

The everyday table red of the heel — built for pasta with potato and bean dishes.

Pasta e Ceci, ready for the table

Pasta e Ceci

Pasta and chickpeas for an ordinary evening

White · Locride and Bianco, Calabria

Mantonico

Ripe pear · Beeswax · Dried herb · Citrus pith

Onion soup and potato dumplings are sweet and soft — this has the texture to sit next to them.

White · Campania

Fiano and Greco di Tufo

Hazelnut · Quince · Smoke · Honeysuckle

Nutty enough for chickpeas, structured enough for a soup built on onion and oil.

Lagane e Ceci, ready for the table

Lagane e Ceci

Wide hand-cut noodles with chickpeas

Red · Cosenza province, Calabria

Terre di Cosenza — Magliocco

Black plum · Violet · Black pepper · Bay leaf

The Cosenza red for Cosenza food — enough weight for stuffed eggplant, enough herb to sit with bay and chilli.

Red · Basilicata

Aglianico del Vulture

Sour black cherry · Tobacco leaf · Volcanic ash · Dried fig

The one red on this list with enough tannin for anything baked, braised, or heavily peppered.

Red · Salento, Puglia

Negroamaro and Primitivo

Dark plum · Carob · Tobacco · Sun-dried tomato

The everyday table red of the heel — built for pasta with potato and bean dishes.

Licurdia, ready for the table

Licurdia

The red onion and potato soup of Cosenza

White · Locride and Bianco, Calabria

Mantonico

Ripe pear · Beeswax · Dried herb · Citrus pith

Onion soup and potato dumplings are sweet and soft — this has the texture to sit next to them.

White · Campania

Fiano and Greco di Tufo

Hazelnut · Quince · Smoke · Honeysuckle

Nutty enough for chickpeas, structured enough for a soup built on onion and oil.

Pasta ca Muddica, ready for the table

Pasta ca Muddica

Pasta with toasted breadcrumbs and anchovy

White · Cirò, Calabria

Cirò Bianco

Yellow apple · Almond skin · Chamomile · Sea salt

Salt cod and anchovy want salinity rather than fruit; the almond bitterness meets the toasted breadcrumb.

White · Terre di Cosenza, Calabria

Pecorello

Green apple · White flowers · Fennel · Lemon leaf

Fennel and citrus in the glass, fennel and citrus on the plate.

Potato Gnocchi, ready for the table

Potato Gnocchi

Tender ridged dumplings made by hand

White · Cirò, Calabria

Cirò Bianco

Yellow apple · Almond skin · Chamomile · Sea salt

Salt cod and anchovy want salinity rather than fruit; the almond bitterness meets the toasted breadcrumb.

White · Locride and Bianco, Calabria

Mantonico

Ripe pear · Beeswax · Dried herb · Citrus pith

Onion soup and potato dumplings are sweet and soft — this has the texture to sit next to them.

Red · Mount Etna, Sicily

Etna Rosso

Red cherry · Orange rind · Smoke · Dried thyme

Light enough for fish stew, savoury enough for caponata's sweet and sour.