Recipe cards

Ingredients

• 4–5 medium floury potatoes (about 2¼ lb), such as Russet or Idaho
• 1⅔–2 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting
• 1 large egg
• Fine sea salt

Method

1. 1Boil the potatoes whole in salted water until a knife passes through easily. Drain and peel while warm.
2. 2Rice the potatoes onto a clean work surface and let the steam escape for 5 minutes.
3. 3Add 1⅔ cups flour, the egg, and a generous pinch of salt. Bring together gently without kneading heavily.
4. 4Divide into ropes, cut into small pillows, and roll each piece lightly over a gnocchi board or fork.
5. 5Boil in batches. Lift the gnocchi about 30 seconds after they float, then dress with your chosen sauce.

Ingredients

• 2 tbsp olive oil
• 2 garlic cloves
• 1 rosemary sprig
• 2 cans chickpeas, drained
• 2⅞ cups water or light broth
• 8½ oz short pasta
• Sea salt and black pepper

Method

1. 1Warm the olive oil with garlic and rosemary in a heavy pot until fragrant.
2. 2Add the chickpeas and broth. Simmer for 20 minutes, crushing a spoonful of chickpeas to thicken the broth.
3. 3Add the pasta and cook until tender, stirring often. Add water as needed so the mixture stays loose.
4. 4Rest for 5 minutes, season, and finish with olive oil.

Ingredients

• 2¼ lb waxy potatoes (such as Yukon Gold or red potatoes), peeled and sliced ⅛–¼ inch thick (about 5–6 medium potatoes)
• 1 large onion, thinly sliced
• ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 dried Calabrian chilli, crumbled (optional)
• Fine sea salt
• A few basil or oregano leaves (optional)

Method

1. 1Rinse the potato slices in cold water to remove surface starch, then dry them thoroughly in a towel. Wet potatoes will steam instead of browning.
2. 2Heat the olive oil in a wide, heavy skillet over medium heat. Add the potatoes in an even layer and season with salt.
3. 3Cook for about 10 minutes without stirring so a crust forms underneath, then turn the potatoes over in large sections with a spatula.
4. 4Add the onion and the chilli, lower the heat slightly, and continue cooking for 20–25 minutes, turning every 5 minutes.
5. 5The potatoes are ready when they are golden, soft inside, and sticking together in patches. Season again, add the herbs, and serve straight from the pan.

Ingredients

• 3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 onion, finely chopped
• 1 carrot, finely chopped
• 1 celery stalk, finely chopped
• 1½ lb potatoes, peeled and cut into ¾ inch cubes (about 3–4 medium potatoes)
• 2 tbsp tomato paste
• 4¼ cups hot water
• 11 oz mixed short pasta
• A piece of Parmesan or pecorino rind (optional)
• Sea salt and black pepper
• Grated pecorino, to serve

Method

1. 1Warm the olive oil in a heavy pot and cook the onion, carrot, and celery gently for 8–10 minutes until soft.
2. 2Add the potatoes and tomato paste and stir for 2 minutes so everything is coated.
3. 3Pour in the hot water, add the cheese rind and a good pinch of salt, and simmer for 20 minutes until the potatoes begin to fall apart.
4. 4Crush about a quarter of the potatoes against the side of the pot to thicken the broth.
5. 5Add the pasta and cook, stirring often, until tender, adding a little hot water if the pot tightens too much.
6. 6Rest off the heat for 5 minutes. Season, then finish each bowl with pepper, olive oil, and grated cheese.

Ingredients

• 14 oz fileja, busiate, or another twisted dried pasta
• 3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 small onion, finely chopped
• 2⅞–3½ oz ’nduja
• 2⅞ cups passata or peeled tomatoes, crushed (about 5–6 medium tomatoes)
• Sea salt
• Grated pecorino crotonese or ricotta salata, to serve

Method

1. 1Bring a large pot of well-salted water to the boil.
2. 2Warm the olive oil in a wide pan and cook the onion gently for 6–8 minutes until translucent.
3. 3Add the ’nduja and break it up with a wooden spoon; it will melt into the oil and turn it deep red.
4. 4Add the tomatoes, season lightly, and simmer for 15 minutes until the sauce thickens and the fat separates slightly.
5. 5Cook the pasta until just short of al dente, then transfer it to the pan with a ladle of pasta water and toss for a minute so the sauce coats every twist.
6. 6Serve with grated cheese; the sauce is already well seasoned by the salami.

Ingredients

• 1¾ lb red onions, thinly sliced (about 5–6 medium onions)
• 14 oz potatoes, peeled and diced (about 2–3 medium potatoes)
• 4 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
• 4¼ cups light vegetable broth or water
• 1 dried Calabrian chilli, crumbled
• 4 thick slices of stale country bread, toasted
• ⅔ cup grated pecorino
• Sea salt

Method

1. 1Warm the olive oil in a heavy pot over low heat. Add the onions and a good pinch of salt and cook very gently for 20 minutes, stirring, until completely soft and sweet without colouring.
2. 2Add the potatoes and stir for 2 minutes.
3. 3Pour in the broth, add the chilli, and simmer for 25–30 minutes until the potatoes are collapsing and the soup has thickened.
4. 4Crush some of the potato against the side of the pot to give the soup body, then taste and season.
5. 5Set a slice of toasted bread in each bowl, ladle the soup over it, and scatter generously with pecorino.
6. 6Let it stand for two minutes so the bread softens before serving.

Ingredients

• 14 oz spaghetti or bucatini
• 1⅛ cups coarse breadcrumbs from stale country bread
• 6 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
• 4 anchovy fillets in oil
• 2 garlic cloves, lightly crushed
• 1 dried chilli, crumbled (optional)
• Chopped flat-leaf parsley
• Sea salt

Method

1. 1Toast the breadcrumbs in a dry pan over medium heat with 2 tbsp olive oil, stirring constantly, until deep golden. Tip them onto a plate immediately so they stop cooking.
2. 2Bring a large pot of salted water to the boil and start the pasta.
3. 3In the same pan, warm the remaining oil with the garlic and chilli. When the garlic is fragrant, remove it and add the anchovies, pressing them until they dissolve.
4. 4Drain the pasta while still firm, keeping a cup of the water, and toss it in the anchovy oil with a splash of that water.
5. 5Off the heat, add most of the breadcrumbs and the parsley and toss hard so the crumbs coat the strands.
6. 6Serve at once with the remaining crumbs on top, while they are still crisp.

Ingredients

• 4 medium eggplants
• ⅔ cup stale bread, soaked in water and squeezed dry
• 2 eggs
• ¾ cup grated pecorino
• 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
• A handful of basil, torn
• 1⅔ cups passata
• 4 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
• Breadcrumbs, for the tops
• Sea salt and black pepper

Method

1. 1Halve the eggplants lengthways and scoop out the flesh, leaving a ⅓ inch shell. Salt the shells lightly and set them cut side down for 20 minutes.
2. 2Chop the scooped flesh and cook it in 2 tbsp olive oil with the garlic over medium heat for 10 minutes until soft. Let it cool.
3. 3Mix the cooked flesh with the squeezed bread, eggs, pecorino, and basil. Season well.
4. 4Heat the oven to 375°F. Spread the passata in a baking dish with a splash of oil and a pinch of salt.
5. 5Pat the shells dry, fill them with the mixture, and set them in the dish. Scatter breadcrumbs over the tops and drizzle with the remaining oil.
6. 6Bake for 40–45 minutes until the shells are tender and the tops are browned. Rest for 10 minutes before serving — they are better warm than hot.

Ingredients

• 5 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 onion, sliced
• 14 oz potatoes, cut into ¾ inch pieces (about 2–3 medium potatoes)
• 2 eggplants, cut into 1⅛ inches pieces
• 3 sweet peppers, cut into wide strips
• 14 oz ripe tomatoes, chopped (about 3–4 medium tomatoes)
• 1 dried Calabrian chilli (optional)
• A handful of basil
• Sea salt

Method

1. 1Warm 3 tbsp oil in a wide, heavy pan and fry the potatoes over medium heat for 10 minutes until they take colour at the edges. Lift them out.
2. 2Add the remaining oil and the eggplant and cook for 8 minutes until softened, then add the peppers and onion and cook for another 8 minutes.
3. 3Return the potatoes to the pan, add the tomatoes, chilli, and a good pinch of salt.
4. 4Cover and cook over low heat for 20–25 minutes, stirring occasionally, until everything is tender and bound together by the tomato.
5. 5Uncover and cook for a few more minutes if the pan looks watery. Tear in the basil off the heat.
6. 6Serve warm or at room temperature, with bread.

Ingredients

• 3⅓ cups salt cod, soaked 48 hours with the water changed 3–4 times
• 4 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 onion, sliced
• 2 sweet red peppers, cut into strips
• 1⅛ lb potatoes, cut into 1⅛ inches pieces (about 2–3 medium potatoes)
• 14 oz peeled tomatoes, crushed (about 3–4 medium tomatoes)
• 2⅞ oz black olives
• 1 dried Calabrian chilli (optional)
• Flat-leaf parsley, chopped
• Plain flour, for dusting

Method

1. 1Drain and dry the soaked cod, remove any bones, and cut it into large pieces. Dust them lightly with flour.
2. 2Warm the oil in a wide pan and brown the cod pieces briefly on both sides, then lift them out.
3. 3In the same oil cook the onion and peppers for 10 minutes, then add the potatoes and stir for 2 minutes.
4. 4Add the tomatoes, olives, chilli, and a splash of water. Simmer for 20 minutes until the potatoes are almost tender.
5. 5Slide the cod back in, cover, and cook very gently for 10 more minutes until it flakes. Move the pan rather than stirring, so the fish stays whole.
6. 6Taste before adding any salt — the cod usually brings enough. Finish with parsley.

Ingredients

• 1¾ cups durum wheat semola rimacinata
• ⅔ cup warm water
• 1¼ cups dried chickpeas, soaked overnight
• 4 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
• 3 garlic cloves, crushed
• 1 sprig rosemary
• 1 dried chilli (optional)
• Sea salt

Method

1. 1Drain the chickpeas and simmer them in unsalted water for 1–1½ hours until tender. Salt them at the end and keep the cooking water.
2. 2Work the semola and water into a firm dough. Knead for 10 minutes, cover, and rest for 30 minutes.
3. 3Roll the dough out thin and cut it into strips roughly ¾ inch wide and 3⅛ inches long.
4. 4Warm the oil with the garlic, rosemary and chilli, then add most of the chickpeas with a ladle of their water. Crush a few against the pan to thicken it.
5. 5Boil the lagane in salted water for 3–4 minutes, then move them straight into the chickpeas with some of the pasta water.
6. 6Toss over the heat for a minute so the sauce clings, then finish with raw olive oil.

Ingredients

• 14 oz stale country bread, torn into large pieces
• 14 oz ripe tomatoes, chopped (about 3–4 medium tomatoes)
• 1 small red onion, sliced thin
• 5 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
• Dried oregano
• Cold water
• Sea salt

Method

1. 1Put the torn bread in a wide bowl and sprinkle it with cold water — enough to soften, not to soak.
2. 2Leave it for 5 minutes, then press out any excess water with your hands.
3. 3Add the tomatoes, onion, a good pinch of salt and plenty of oregano.
4. 4Pour over the olive oil and turn everything together.
5. 5Let it sit for 10 minutes before eating so the bread takes on the tomato juice.

Ingredients

• 4¾ cups soft-wheat bread flour (type 0 or 1)
• 1¼ cups stone-ground wholemeal flour
• 1¾ oz wheat bran, plus more for the crust
• 7 oz active natural leaven (pasta acida)
• 2⅛ cups water
• 2⅔ tsp fine sea salt

Method

1. 1Mix the flours, bran and water and leave to rest for 40 minutes.
2. 2Work in the leaven, then the salt, and knead until the dough is smooth and elastic.
3. 3Rise at cool room temperature for 8–12 hours, folding two or three times in the first two hours.
4. 4Shape into a round, then perform the scanatura: fold one side of the dough over itself so the loaf sits with a raised hump along one edge.
5. 5Roll in wheat bran and prove in a floured cloth for 2–3 hours.
6. 6Heat the oven to 480°F with a stone or heavy tray inside. Bake with steam for 20 minutes, then at 375°F for 40 minutes more, until the crust is very dark. Cool completely before cutting.

Ingredients

• 4 cups type 0 flour
• 1¼ cups warm water
• ½ oz fresh brewer's yeast (or ¼ oz dried)
• 1⅔ tsp fine sea salt
• 2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

Method

1. 1Dissolve the yeast in the warm water and mix it into the flour.
2. 2Add the salt and oil and knead for 10 minutes until smooth. Cover and leave until doubled, about 1½ hours.
3. 3Turn the dough onto a board and press it out without kneading it again.
4. 4Shape discs about ⅓ inch thick and pierce a hole through the centre of each.
5. 5Set on floured trays and rest for 30 minutes.
6. 6Bake at 430°F for about 30 minutes until pale gold and firm. Cool a little, then split and fill, or serve torn alongside.

Ingredients

• 3¼ cups flour
• ⅞ cup warm water
• 3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
• 1⅓ tsp fine sea salt
• Olive oil, for the pan

Method

1. 1Work the flour, water, oil and salt into a simple dough and knead briefly until it comes together.
2. 2Do not let it rise — lestopitta means fast pitta.
3. 3Divide into eight pieces and roll each one thin.
4. 4Heat a heavy pan or griddle and grease it lightly.
5. 5Cook each flatbread for 1–2 minutes a side until it puffs and takes dark spots.
6. 6Stack under a cloth as they come off the heat and eat warm.

Ingredients

• 4¾ cups remilled durum semolina (semola rimacinata)
• 5⅔ oz active natural starter
• 2 cups water
• 2⅔ tsp sea salt

Method

1. 1Refresh your starter with semolina and water so it is lively before you begin.
2. 2Mix the semolina, water and starter for about 20 minutes, then cover and rest for at least 90 minutes.
3. 3Weigh and hand-shape the dough, rest 30 minutes, reshape and rest at least 15 minutes more.
4. 4For the taller u sckuanéte form, fold one side of the round over itself; for a cappidde de prévete, leave it low and wide.
5. 5Bake at about 480°F. Give it 15 minutes with steam, then 45 minutes more, until the crust is dark and at least ⅛ inch thick.
6. 6Vent the oven for the last minutes, then cool the loaf completely before cutting.

Ingredients

• 4¾ cups remilled durum semolina or semolato
• 7 oz mother starter
• 2⅔ cups water
• 1⅛ tbsp fine sea salt
• ⅛ oz fresh compressed yeast (optional; permitted by the specification)

Method

1. 1Work the mother starter until it doubles in a few hours, refreshing it as needed.
2. 2Mix the final dough for 25–35 minutes, then bulk-ferment for 25–35 minutes.
3. 3Hand-preform the dough and rest it covered for 25–35 minutes.
4. 4Hand-form the characteristic loaf, rolling one end over to raise the horn.
5. 5Bake in a hot oven — at least one hour for a 1⅛ lb loaf, longer for larger ones — venting for the final 15 minutes.
6. 6Cool completely before cutting; the crumb sets as it cools.

Ingredients

• 5⅞ cups remilled durum semolina
• 8⅞ oz mother starter
• 2¾ cups water
• 1⅛ tbsp fine sea salt

Method

1. 1Combine the semolina and water and rest for 45 minutes.
2. 2Add the mother starter and salt and knead to a firm, smooth dough.
3. 3Ferment for about six hours, folding two or three times early on.
4. 4Shape one large round and prove in a well-floured cloth.
5. 5Bake as hot as your oven allows — the traditional bake is slow and very hot, about two hours on stone in a directly heated wood oven. In a domestic oven, 480°F for 25 minutes with steam, then 375°F for 45 minutes.
6. 6Cool for several hours before cutting.

Ingredients

• 4 cups flour
• About ⅞ cup water

Method

1. 1Knead the flour and water into a fairly firm dough. There is no yeast and no rise — this is pasta azzima, unleavened dough.
2. 2Take small pieces and roll each into a length of about 1½ inches.
3. 3Join the ends of each length to make a small ring.
4. 4Set the rings on a baking tray.
5. 5Bake at 390°F for about 30–35 minutes until firm and lightly coloured.
6. 6Cool completely; they harden as they sit and keep well.

Ingredients

• 3⅔ cups leftover durum-semolina bread dough
• Water, for softening (muddiata)
• 4 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
• 2 tsp dried oregano
• A handful of basil, chopped
• 2⅛ oz dried tomato, chopped
• Chile flakes, to taste

Method

1. 1Soften the leftover bread dough in water until it loosens.
2. 2Re-knead it with the olive oil.
3. 3Work in the oregano, basil, chopped dried tomato and chile.
4. 4Make small rounds and roll each one into a spiral.
5. 5Press each spiral into a disc with your fingers and set on a baking tray.
6. 6Bake at 445°F for 15–20 minutes until the edges crisp. Eat warm.

Ingredients

• 4¾ cups Italian stone-ground type 0 flour
• 2⅓ cups Italian stone-ground type 1 flour
• 7 oz mother starter
• 2⅔ cups water
• 1 tbsp fine sea salt

Method

1. 1Mix the flours and water and rest for 45 minutes.
2. 2Add the mother starter and salt and knead until smooth.
3. 3Rise for 5–6 hours, folding every 45 minutes for the first three hours.
4. 4Shape into a round and prove for 2 hours in a floured cloth.
5. 5Bake at 465°F with steam for 20 minutes, then at 385°F for 35 minutes.
6. 6Cool completely before cutting.

Ingredients

• 3⅓ lb firm eggplants, sliced thin (about 3–4 medium eggplants)
• 3⅓ tbsp coarse sea salt
• 3⅛ cups white wine vinegar
• 2 garlic cloves, sliced
• 1–2 dried chillies
• Dried oregano
• Extra-virgin olive oil, to cover

Method

1. 1Layer the eggplant slices with the salt in a colander, weight them down, and drain for 24 hours.
2. 2Squeeze the slices dry by hand — as dry as you can get them.
3. 3Bring the vinegar to the boil, add the eggplant in batches for 2 minutes, then lift out and drain on clean cloths for several hours until no liquid remains.
4. 4Pack into clean jars with garlic, chilli and oregano, pressing out air pockets as you go.
5. 5Cover completely with olive oil, seal, and keep refrigerated.
6. 6Wait a week before eating, and always keep the eggplant fully submerged in oil.

Ingredients

• 4⅓ lb fresh green olives
• Cold water, for soaking
• ⅞ cup coarse sea salt per 8½ cups of water
• 2 lemons, sliced
• 1 tbsp fennel seeds
• 3 garlic cloves
• Extra-virgin olive oil, to finish

Method

1. 1Crack each olive with a flat stone or the side of a knife, breaking the flesh without crushing the pit.
2. 2Cover with cold water and soak, changing the water twice a day for 8–12 days, until the bitterness fades.
3. 3Make a brine of ⅞ cup salt to 8½ cups of water and bring it to the boil, then cool completely.
4. 4Pack the olives into clean jars with lemon, fennel and garlic and cover with the cold brine.
5. 5Keep them submerged with a weight and store somewhere cool for 2–4 weeks, tasting as you go.
6. 6Once cured, dress portions with olive oil before serving.

Ingredients

• 1¾ lb eggplant, cut into 1⅛ inches cubes (about 2–3 medium eggplants)
• 3 celery stalks, sliced
• 1 large onion, sliced
• 14 oz peeled tomatoes, crushed (about 3–4 medium tomatoes)
• 2⅞ oz green olives, pitted
• 1⅓ oz capers, rinsed
• ¼ cup red wine vinegar
• 2 tbsp sugar
• Olive oil, for frying
• Basil and sea salt

Method

1. 1Salt the eggplant for 30 minutes, then pat dry.
2. 2Fry it in batches in hot oil until browned and tender. Drain on paper.
3. 3In 3 tbsp oil, soften the onion and celery for 10 minutes, then add the tomatoes, olives and capers and cook 10 minutes more.
4. 4Stir the vinegar and sugar together and pour them in. Cook for 5 minutes so the sharpness settles.
5. 5Return the eggplant, turn everything gently, and cook 5 minutes.
6. 6Cool to room temperature and finish with basil. It is better after a few hours.

Ingredients

• 12 dried sweet peppers (peperoni di Senise or similar)
• ⅞ cup extra-virgin olive oil
• Flaky sea salt

Method

1. 1Wipe the peppers clean and remove the stems and seeds.
2. 2Heat the oil in a small pan to a moderate temperature — hot, but not smoking.
3. 3Fry two or three peppers at a time for 5–10 seconds only, turning once.
4. 4Lift them out the moment they darken slightly and go translucent, and drain on paper.
5. 5Salt them while hot. They crisp as they cool.
6. 6Eat as they are, or crumble over pasta, beans or potatoes.

Ingredients

• 16 zucchini blossoms
• 1¼ cups plain flour
• ⅞ cup cold sparkling water
• 1 egg (optional)
• Sunflower or olive oil, for frying
• Sea salt

Method

1. 1Open each blossom, remove the stamen, and check inside. Wipe rather than wash if you can.
2. 2Whisk the flour with the cold water, and the egg if using, to a thin batter. Rest 10 minutes.
3. 3Heat 1⅛ inches of oil to 345°F.
4. 4Dip each flower, let the excess run off, and fry for 2 minutes a side until pale gold.
5. 5Drain on paper and salt at once.
6. 6Serve immediately — they soften within minutes.

Ingredients

• 3¼ cups plain flour
• ¾ cup sugar
• ½ cup lard or butter
• 2 eggs
• 1 tsp baking powder
• 5¼ oz dried figs, chopped
• 3½ oz walnuts, chopped
• ½ cup raisins
• 2⅛ oz dark chocolate, chopped
• Zest of 1 orange
• 1 tsp cinnamon
• 3 tbsp vino cotto or grape must syrup

Method

1. 1Rub the fat into the flour with the sugar and baking powder, then bring together with the eggs. Rest the pastry 30 minutes.
2. 2Mix the figs, walnuts, raisins, chocolate, zest, cinnamon and vino cotto into a thick filling.
3. 3Roll the pastry to ⅛ inch and cut discs about 3½ inches across.
4. 4Spoon filling onto each, fold over and seal the edges well.
5. 5Bake at 355°F for 20–25 minutes until pale gold.
6. 6Cool and dust with sugar.

Ingredients

• 4 cups plain flour
• ⅞ cup honey
• ½ cup warm water
• 1 tsp ground cinnamon
• ½ tsp ground cloves
• Zest of 1 orange
• Almonds, to decorate (optional)

Method

1. 1Warm the honey with the water until fluid, then let it cool slightly.
2. 2Work it into the flour with the spices and zest to make a stiff dough.
3. 3Rest the dough, wrapped, for 2 hours.
4. 4Roll to ⅓ inch and cut shapes by hand — traditional figures, or simple rounds.
5. 5Press an almond into each if you like, and bake at 340°F for 18–20 minutes.
6. 6Cool completely. They firm up considerably as they cool.

Ingredients

• 3¼ cups plain flour
• 2 eggs
• ¼ cup sugar
• ¼ cup white wine
• 2⅔ tbsp olive oil
• 1¼ cups cooked chestnuts, puréed
• ⅓ cup sugar, for the filling
• 2⅛ oz dark chocolate, chopped
• 1 tsp cinnamon
• Oil, for frying
• Sugar, to finish

Method

1. 1Work the flour, eggs, sugar, wine and oil into a smooth dough and rest it for 30 minutes.
2. 2Mix the chestnut purée with the sugar, chocolate and cinnamon.
3. 3Roll the dough thin and cut discs about 3⅛ inches across.
4. 4Place filling on each, fold into half-moons and seal the edges firmly.
5. 5Fry in oil at 340°F for 2–3 minutes a side until golden and blistered.
6. 6Drain and roll in sugar while still warm.

Ingredients

• 3¼ cups plain flour
• 3 eggs
• 3¼ tbsp sugar
• 2⅔ tbsp olive oil
• Zest of 1 lemon
• Oil, for frying
• ⅞ cup honey
• Toasted almonds or citrus zest, to finish

Method

1. 1Work the flour, eggs, sugar, oil and zest into a firm dough and rest 20 minutes.
2. 2Roll into thin ropes and cut into pieces the size of a hazelnut.
3. 3Fry in batches at 340°F until golden, then drain well.
4. 4Warm the honey gently until fluid but not boiling.
5. 5Turn the fried dough through the honey until coated, then pile it on a plate while warm.
6. 6Finish with almonds or zest and let it set before serving.

Ingredients

• 2 citrons (cedri), unwaxed
• 3½ cups sugar
• 2⅞ cups water
• Juice of 1 lemon

Method

1. 1Peel the citrons thinly, avoiding as much white pith as you can. Reserve the flesh.
2. 2Steep the peel in the water for 24 hours in the refrigerator.
3. 3Strain, add the sugar, and heat gently until fully dissolved. Simmer 10 minutes.
4. 4Squeeze in whatever juice the citron flesh gives, plus the lemon juice, and take it off the heat.
5. 5Cool, then bottle and refrigerate.
6. 6Serve one part syrup to five parts cold water or soda.

Ingredients

• 2 bergamots, unwaxed
• 3 lemons
• ⅞ cup sugar
• ⅞ cup water, for the syrup
• 5⅛ cups cold water
• Ice, to serve

Method

1. 1Pare the zest from one bergamot and one lemon.
2. 2Heat the sugar and ⅞ cup water with the zest until dissolved, then simmer 5 minutes and cool.
3. 3Juice the bergamots and lemons and strain.
4. 4Combine the cooled syrup, the juice and the cold water. Taste and adjust.
5. 5Chill thoroughly.
6. 6Serve over ice with a strip of zest.

Ingredients

• 1 cups lemon juice, strained
• ⅞ cup sugar
• 2½ cups water
• Zest of 1 lemon

Method

1. 1Heat ⅞ cup of the water with the sugar and zest until dissolved, then cool completely.
2. 2Strain out the zest and mix the syrup with the lemon juice and the remaining water.
3. 3Pour into a shallow metal tray and freeze.
4. 4After 45 minutes, scrape the frozen edges into the centre with a fork.
5. 5Repeat every 30 minutes for about three hours, until the whole tray is loose crystals.
6. 6Serve straight away, in cold glasses.

Ingredients

• 11 lb ripe dark grapes
• A small piece of quince or a bay leaf (optional)

Method

1. 1Crush the grapes by hand and press them through a sieve to get the must, discarding skins and pips.
2. 2Bring the must to a bare simmer in a wide, heavy pan.
3. 3Skim the foam that rises in the first half hour.
4. 4Cook uncovered at a low simmer for 3–4 hours, until reduced to about a tenth of its volume and syrupy on a cold spoon.
5. 5Add the quince or bay for the last 30 minutes if using, then remove it.
6. 6Cool and bottle in sterilised bottles; refrigerate after opening.

Ingredients

• 1⅞ lb waxy potatoes (about 6 medium), such as Yukon Gold or red potatoes
• 1 small red onion, sliced thin
• 4 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
• 1½ tbsp red wine vinegar
• A handful of flat-leaf parsley, chopped
• Sea salt and black pepper

Method

1. 1Boil the potatoes whole in well-salted water until a knife slides in easily, 18–20 minutes.
2. 2Drain, and peel them while they are still hot if you prefer them peeled.
3. 3Cut into thick slices or rough chunks and put them in a wide bowl.
4. 4Soak the sliced onion in cold water for 10 minutes to soften its bite, then drain.
5. 5Dress the warm potatoes with oil, vinegar, salt and pepper — warm potatoes absorb the dressing.
6. 6Fold in the onion and parsley and serve at room temperature.

Ingredients

• 2¼ lb waxy or all-purpose potatoes (about 5 medium), such as Yukon Gold or red potatoes, cut into wedges
• 5 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
• 2 tsp dried oregano
• 2 garlic cloves, lightly crushed (optional)
• Sea salt and black pepper

Method

1. 1Heat the oven to 390°F.
2. 2Toss the wedges with the oil, oregano, salt and pepper until every piece is coated.
3. 3Spread them in a single layer in a roasting pan — crowding steams them.
4. 4Roast for 25 minutes, then turn the pieces and add the garlic if using.
5. 5Roast another 15–20 minutes until deep gold and crisp at the edges.
6. 6Taste for salt and serve hot, with a little more oregano if you like.

Ingredients

• 1½ lb ripe tomatoes (about 4 large), cut into wedges
• 1 small red onion, sliced thin
• 3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
• 1 tsp dried oregano
• A few basil leaves, torn (optional)
• Sea salt
• Bread, for the juices

Method

1. 1Cut the tomatoes into wedges and put them in a shallow bowl.
2. 2Salt them and leave for 5 minutes so they release some juice.
3. 3Soak the onion slices in cold water for 10 minutes, then drain and add.
4. 4Dress with olive oil and oregano, and add basil if you have it.
5. 5Toss once and serve straight away, with bread for what is left in the bowl.

Ingredients

• 4 oranges
• 1 small fennel bulb, shaved thin
• A handful of black olives
• 3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
• ½ small red onion, sliced very thin (optional)
• Sea salt and black pepper

Method

1. 1Cut the top and bottom from each orange, then cut away the peel and white pith with a knife.
2. 2Slice the oranges into rounds and lay them on a plate, catching any juice.
3. 3Scatter over the shaved fennel, olives and onion if using.
4. 4Dress with olive oil, salt and a good amount of black pepper, and pour over the caught juice.
5. 5Serve cold, at the end of a heavy meal or beside one.